Camino de Santiago Day 17
Villarmentero de Campos to Ledigos 21 Miles
This article is the fifteenth in our series of walking 500 miles on the Camino de Santiago with my husband Scott. Some articles will be only about one day of walking, and some may include a few days of walking, for the lengths will vary. To begin with the first article click here.
As we walked out of town in the predawn darkness, we heard a donkey braying over at the teepee compound. No one was sleeping in late over there!
Carríon de los Condes
We decided to make a stop in the town of Carríon de los Condes. I needed to resupply my bandages and Compeed for my feet. We also bought more apples and bananas for our walking snacks. The town was much larger than others we had seen recently, so we stopped at the ATM to withdraw some cash. Day 17 was looking up, as we resupplied all of our basic needs.
We noticed a plain looking church, so we popped in for a minute to take a look. It was absolutely beautiful inside. What a surprise churches can be in each town!
The Long Walk
For quite a while we walked along a paved road. It was quiet and we rarely saw another pilgrim. Eventually, we began walking on a flat dirt road, and there was nothing to see for miles and miles.
I decided to play music from a playlist on my phone. No one was around to hear it but us, so I cranked up the volume. This was the first time on the Camino we had listened to music, and it really energized us and we walked at a fast pace for hours.
It truly felt like we were in the middle of nowhere. We ate our fruit as we walked, and enjoyed hard candies, which Scott always picked up at hotels and albergues.
After many hours of walking, we noticed we were coming to the edge of a plateau, and there was a small town downhill, just below the edge. We had planned to stop at the town and spend the night, but the only albergue we saw didn’t appeal to us and it looked crowded.
Scott and I made the decision to keep walking a few more miles to the next town.
I felt so strong, probably the strongest I had felt as we walked the Camino. Scott’s shin splints were improving each day. So, why not keep going? We were motivated to get some miles done so we could get closer to Leon and meeting our friends from home, Blythe and Jennifer.
A Pilgrim and His Dogs
As we were getting closer to the next town, we saw a man coming toward us. He was on the highway though, not the dirt path we were on. He was only wearing shorts and was very suntanned. The man was pushing a cart full of gear and had four small dogs running along (unleashed) ahead of him. On the highway! This man was obviously a pilgrim walking the route in reverse. He was the first pilgrim we would see walking the Camino de Santiago in the opposite direction. We said our “Buen Camino” as we passed and waved to each other.
After 21 miles of walking, we arrived at the small town of Ledigos. There were only two albergues and we were lucky to get a room.
Our room had two beds, a small window and a light. It was very basic. I did my usual bedbug check, but wasn’t very optimistic. The bathroom was down the hall and not clean enough to wash our laundry. I told Scott it was the worst place I would be staying on the Camino.
The walls were very thin and we could hear people upstairs running around and talking. It turned out it was a group of teenagers from South Korea walking the Camino with their two chaperones. Because of the language barrier, we couldn’t speak to each other, but Scott was happy to use his one South Korean phrase of hello, which he had learned from Park, at the beginning of the Camino.
Our albergue had a bar/restaurant so we were glad we didn’t need to walk elsewhere looking for food.
We had a delicious pilgrim dinner with a woman named Lou from England and a man named Steve from Quebec. Both of them were walking the Camino alone.
Dinner was excellent and we shared a huge pot of vegetable/lentil soup. Then, we were each given two huge pork chops which took up my entire plate! I wish I had taken a picture, as it was a meal to remember.
Later, we literally ran up the hill at the edge of town to the church, where we sat on a stone bench and enjoyed the sunset. It was a nice end to a long Day 17.
Day 17 21 flat miles